The splendor of this royal city is living since sixth century. Once
upon a time the patron saint of the shepherds and cowherds, Gwallipa, cured a king a of
leprosy and thus the city got its name Gwalior on the saint.
With the decline of Muslim power in Delhi, Gwalior fell under the sway the Marathas-
Scindias assumed sovereign power. The Scindias, counted among the most glamorous of Indian
princes, became famous of their wealth and were popular with successive viceroys because
of their generous hospitality and capacity to organize thrilling tiger shoots for visiting
dignitaries. |
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Gwalior
Fort |
A glazed frieze in Gwalior
Fort. |
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| Towering 100 meters above the
town in splendid isolation on a solid rock of sandstone, the fort is reckoned the most
imposing citadel in India and the Palace houses a priceless collection of rare objects de
art.
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Then
there are huge rock cut icons of Bahubali, a Jain
Master which the visitor of the giant Buddhas found in Bamiyan in Afghanistan. Executed in
the 15th century the tallest figure is almost17 meters high is made on the rock
over which the fort is situated.The main
entrance on the eastern side affords a breathtaking view of the ever-extending plains of
the Indian heartland. Six gates built in a distinct Hindu or Muslim style lead the way up
to the summit. There are six Palaces encircled by the massive ramparts of this fort- these
again show a beautiful blending of the Hindu and Muslim styles and testify the catholic
taste and tolerance of the ruling dynasty.
There are many water tanks in the fort. The most
prominent are the Johar Kund, where the Rajput women immolated themselves to save
their honour when defeat and disgrace were imminent, and the Suraj Kund, where the
family deity of the Scindias,the sun god, was worshipped. It is an impressive mustachioed
Surya that blazons forth from the royal emblem of Gwalior. |
Jai Vilas Palace
Jai Vilas is unmatched in scale and splendour The durbar hall for formal audience measures
15 meters by 85 meters with the roof over 12 meters high. The ceiling is
painted in pale green and gold and the floor is covered with perhaps the largest one-piece
carpet woven in situ by the carpet makers in the world. This is the room about which lady
Dufferin the Vicereine exclaimed in 1884, " The
magnificent room in which we lost ourselves last night". The two
crystal chandeliers are reputed to be the largest in the world with the possible exception
of one on display in the Tsars winter palace outside Moscow. When the huge
chandeliers were about to be installed, doubts were expressed whether the ceiling would
bear the combined weight of about six tons. The ruler of Gwalior could indulge in such
expensive fancies because he was one of the richest men of his tome. Griffith, a British
author, has provided a glimpse of the treasure he had amassed."In addition to coins, there was an inestimable quantity of
Jewels which rivaled Alladins store. Thos collection
was the largest in the
world He ( Jayajirao Scindia) had in his vaults, silver coins that could be counted in
millions, manigicent pearls and diamonds by the ten thousands, rubies, emeralds and other
gems by the thousands and wrought and melted gold by the maund".
( A maund, it is useful to recall, is Indian measure of weight used for
wholesale purchase of grains and equals 35 kilos approximately.) |
Moti Mahal
Jaivilas despite its opulence did not become the Maharajas favorite. It was more
suited for a European prince than an oriental potentate. Another Palace was commissioned.
Thus was Moti Mahal born, a modest mansion with nine hundred rooms. It draws inspiration
from the medieval buildings in Gwalior and has an unmistakable oriental ambience with
curving colonnaded terraces flanked by square towers. In the rear is the grand fort and in
front an artificial lake sets it off as a showpiece. |

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Mansing
Palace
Mansingh palace is the most attractive of the palaces. The façade was originally covered
with white plaster and the domes plated with copper. The courtyard and the rooms are
ornamented with intricate carvings. A wall of hewn stand stone about 100 meters long and
30 meters high crowned by ornamental frieze of brilliant tiles, the ornamentation is
further embellished by beautiful domes connected together by a balustrade of delicately
wrought stone carvings. |
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Gujari Mahal
There is an other beautiful palace named Gujari Mahal, commissioned by
Mansingh to satisfy a whim of his beloved queen Mrignayani. The epithet refers to the
ladys fawn like eyes. She is the heroine of many a folk ballad and the subject of a
many historical novel. ( Mrignayani by Vrindavanlal Varma is a beautiful novel on her)There are other surprises that Gwalior stores in its magic box. These
includes the beautiful buildings namely Teli ka Mandir, Sas Bahu ka Mandir and the
mausoleum of the sufi saint Gaus Mohammad are among the most well known.
Teli ka Mandir dates
back to 8th century. It is the loftiest building in the fort soaring 35 meters
high and presents a curious blending of the North Indian and the southern style of temples
architecture. Sculptures decorating it indicate that it started as a temple dedicated to
Vishnu but was later converted for the worship of the other major Hindu God Shiva. The Sas
Bahu Ka Mandir was built by the Mahipala the Kachchwah king in the early 11th
century. It was originally called the Sahastrabahu temple and is the most ancient
structure in the fort. |
Gwalior was the favorite haunt of the big game hunters of the Raj. It was almost
mandatory for the Prince of Wales and the Viceroy to invite themselves for an exotic tiger
shoot at Gwalior. There was a childish competition of sorts as to who had shot the largest
tiger. Naturally the one highest in the hierarchy could only claim the largest tiger. To
ensure that majesty was not offended an elaborate ritual of measurement was devised. The
record stands in the name of Lord Harding who is immortalized in the stone slab
between the 101 and 102 kilometer on the Bombay Gwalior road . The inscription reads
simply, " Near this spot on 11 Right Honorable Charles Baron
Hardinge of Penshurst . A decade later the Prince of Wales failed by a whisker to break
this record. The tiger bagged by the future King Edward VIII was the measured 11feet 5 ½
inches .On an earlier occasion the hunting expedition of the Prince of Wales had inspired
imperialist poets to the hunting expedition of the Prince of Wales had inspired
imperialist poets to ecstatic rhyming Beautiful he will shoot, Many a royal tiger
brute, Laying on their backs they die,Shot in the apple of the eye! |
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